Culinary excellence at Skills for Chefs 2010
Atul Kocchar in action
The 13th annual Skills for Chefs conference at the University of Sheffield from July 5-6 brought together 200 delegates to see some of the country's top chefs share their skills and knowledge, plus experience what has been described as “the best ever business programme” to date.
The key note address was delivered by Catherine Gazzoli, CEO of Slow Food UK, the organisation promoting the enjoyment and protection of locally produced food and regional cooking. She encouraged chefs to embrace the philosophy of the movement by using food that fully respects the environment, human health and animal welfare.
The strong line up of chefs demonstrating over the two days – many from Michelin starred restaurants. First to appear was Atul Kochhar chef owner of the Indian restaurant Benares in London's Mayfair. He cooked several dishes and advised chefs to use spices in the same way as they would use salt and pepper – added as part of the seasoning balance. "Don't be scared of spices," he said. "Nothing is forbidden, but ease up on the chilli – you shouldn't be trying to prove something by adding quantities of chilli."
Claude Bosi, chef owner of Hibiscus in London, told delegates that he based the menu at his restaurant on seasonal availability and he explained the benefits of using water baths and liquid nitrogen in his dishes.
A detailed presentation followed about banqueting techniques from Andrew Bennett, director of food and beverages at the Sheraton Park Lane Hotel. He stressed the benefits of slow cooking meat so that all guests could enjoy perfectly cooked dishes. In addition he said chefs should put special diets at the top of the agenda and ensure the same thought and passion goes into their creation. "Guests who need special diets are paying the same price, so how would you feel if the food was second rate?" he said.
The Mandarin Oriental's chef pâtissier Graham Hornigold's session focused on desserts, which he said do not have to be very sweet. He emphasised this point by creating apple risotto with celery and apple rémoulade, candied pecans and vanilla mascarpone sorbet.
Glynn Purnell, chef owner of Purnell's in Birmingham, explained that the ideas for his dishes often came from his childhood and his mother's cooking and presented two signature dishes from his restaurant. Chef Mark Hix meanwhile, who now heads his own outlets under the Hix banner, produced several dishes from his new book including lamb cutlets with cucumber and mint, and red mullet on toast.
Renowned chef Giorgio Locatelli explained in detail how chefs could cook the perfect risotto. His risotto with Barelo wine and Castelmagno cheese was followed by sea bass cooked in salt crust with herbs, which he served with aged balsamic vinegar.
Theo Randall, who operates his own restaurant at the InterContinental in Park Lane, London, also shared his secrets about Italian style dishes such as pan fried scallops with white polenta and Italian fish stew.
The importance of making money and staying in business was the focus of Steven Doherty's session. Doherty, who became the first British head chef of a three star Michelin restaurant when he worked at Le Gavroche, showed how great dishes like boned and rolled stuffed saddle of rabbit can generate excellent profit margins.
At the conference gala dinner, Martin Carabott from The Gleneagles Resort was proclaimed winner of the Skills for Chefs culinary competition. He was praised for making great use of the ingredients provided in his dish of slow cooked Blythburgh pork fillet, California prunes and armagnac jus. Chair of judges Andrew Bennett said: "Martin used modern techniques to great effect to produce a perfectly cooked piece of pork; he was a credit to his mentor Scott Scorer at Gleneagles."
For further information about the conference and details for 2011, visit www.skillsforchefs.co.uk
Words: Sheila Eggleston
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