12th April 2013
November 2007: Chef profile, Anton Mosimann
Swiss born master chef Anton Mosimann looks back on a culinary career that has spanned nearly half a century and helped shape the style of food we eat in Britain today
It's the smells you never forget. I enjoyed being around food; going to the market with my father; the freshness of all the local produce. Even at four or five years of age I was helping my parents in the restaurant – as much as I could. Children have dreams of being a pilot, a train driver. For me there was never a question of becoming anything but a chef.
After learning your trade in Switzerland, you gained experience in Italy, Canada and Japan before joining the Dorchester in 1975 as the hotel's youngest maitre chef des cuisine aged just 28. How did you manage to achieve so much at so young an age?
I made the decision at 17 to go to the best hotels, work with the best chefs, the best people. I never did it for the money, that wasn't my goal. I was just so determined to make it. While others went out after work, I went to my room to read and learn more. I worked in a bakery, a chocolate factory, always trying to learn and learn and learn. Once I went to work in Stockholm, for no money, just to learn about herrings and the local food culture. I also went back to become a pastry commis at the Palace Hotel Gstaad, Switzerland. People thought I was mad to take the role of commis, but now when I stand in front of a pastry chef we can communicate better.
At the Dorchester you brought about what some describe as a revolution in hotel dining in this country by introducing lighter, fresher, healthier cooking and creating what became known as ‘cuisine naturelle'. Was it difficult to introduce these changes in a new job at that age?
Looking back it was an incredible time. I was 28 years old, with a brigade of 132 chefs, most of whom had been at the Dorchester for 25, 30 or even 40 years. Suddenly I had to tell them how to do things; change their attitude and way of thinking. But I was ready for it. I had a lot of confidence, but also great support from the management. I was ready for the hard work; ready to show them how to change things – not to overcook the meat, and cook the banquet the same day not the day before. But I always believed in myself and that I could do it if I had the support. Of course I had to gain that support, but I did. They saw the future too, and we changed it.
Under your leadership, the Dorchester became the first hotel restaurant outside of France to be awarded two Michelin stars. In 1988 you gave these up to begin your own catering empire starting with Mosimann's, your private dining club in London's Belgravia, before opening a culinary training academy in Battersea and establishing your event catering business, Mosimann's Party Service. What is a typical day like for you now?
I go running every morning for an hour in the gym. I enjoy it greatly and if I don't go because I'm travelling for example, I do miss it. It is a great start to the day. I used to live in Kensington but now I'm within walking distance of the club and I get in between 8.30-9am. I meet with my PA to go through any mail and correspondence – I get a lot – then I'll go around the kitchen, checking the food before service. I may see some of my guests in the bar, then I'll be back in the kitchen for service. I do that as much as I can – not every day, but most days. There may also be a couple of staff meetings in the morning. My two sons are in the business now, so I try to be there to support them. In the afternoon, I'll have a break for maybe two hours. I may go home or to other appointments. I'm back at 5pm to catch up with my PA before she goes home and I'll stay here if there is nothing else taking place. If the club is running smoothly, if there is a good atmosphere and I feel I can go early, my wife Kathrin and I may go to dinner at around 9pm. We'll go for Thai or Chinese food. But it all depends – last night for example we were catering for 700 people at St James' Palace, with Her Majesty in attendance.
The walls at the club are lined with photographs of yourself with royalty and many great dignitaries and world leaders of this age. You must have some wonderful memories.
Every time I come into this building I feel proud. I'm having 30 more photographs framed at the moment – I have so many. There are pictures of me with people like Mr Gorbachev and Yasser Arafat. Even surrounded by 50 security guards they still said ‘of course chef, we can have a picture together'. I once cooked dinner for a wedding anniversary in Washington for around 85 people and after dinner met three American presidents – George Bush Snr, Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter. How many people can say that? Sometimes I look back to where I came from – a very basic, simple family of restaurateurs – and to think of my days as a young boy and then see those photographs of myself with those people is a wonderful feeling. I never take it for granted.
Who or what has inspired you the most during your career?
Every chef I worked for I admired. They all gave me something in their own way, whether it was about cooking, management, motivation, and dedication. I picked up the best from everybody. I also learnt from all the different cultures I have experienced. I spent a year in Japan, three years in Montreal, time in Italy, all fantastic experiences.
How would you describe your management style in the kitchen?
No shouting, no screaming, no swearing and no throwing pots around. I don't believe in it. I believe in talking and listening. There should be a friendly, motivational atmosphere in the kitchen. Some of my old chefs: David Nicholls at the Mandarin, Tony Marshall at the Hilton, Paul Gayler at the Lanesborough, they will tell you – if something went wrong I'd just stand and look at them, not saying a word. They wondered – why isn't he shouting and screaming? But they got the message. People can tell with a look, by body language, or I will sit down the next day and say – not again. That is my style and it has proven to be successful. When I work with chefs I don't know, it is very important to have that friendly talk beforehand, to look people in the eyes and say – this is how it's going to be done, and if you are unsure, please come and ask and I will be happy to show you again.
Throughout your career you have continued to travel the world, getting to grips with the local food cultures in every place you visit. Where was your most recent trip and what did you learn?
I've just come back from working on a cruise liner for Crystal cruises – from Istanbul to Alexandria. It was my third trip with the company and I'm invited as a guest chef. I meet great people, who enjoy good food and wines. Last year we went to Los Angeles, Acapulco, Equador, Guatamala and Lima in Peru.Such wonderful experiences. When I travel I always go for the local food. I learn from each culture and bring it back with me to the club. In the New Year I will serve a dinner for my members with dishes from Instanbul and Cairo. I am also cooking seven courses inspired by my Beijing to Paris trip earlier this year – something from every place we drove through – Mongolia, China, Russia, the Baltic states, Poland, Germany and France. The Paris race was incredible; crazy and mad, but fantastic. I saw a poster some years ago about the original race – the Peking to Paris Motor Challenge that took place in 1907 and then when I saw an advert for the 100 year anniversary race I said: ‘I'm going to do that'. I drove my own Triumph TR4 for the 10,000mile journey.
Having experienced so many different cuisines, what is your favourite one?
I've been so lucky to be able to enjoy good food. I eat everything – it's my nature but also my profession. When I worked at the Palace Hotel in St Moritz, the chef was 85 years old and had worked with Escoffier. In those days you reduced cream from 10 gallon down to one, and then we would finish with butter to thicken the sauce. When I went to Japan, there was no cream, no butter. What a contrast, what excitement. It's not for me to say who is wrong and who is right, but I loved Japan – the culture, the people, their attitude towards work, the ingredients, the artistic creativeness – that was a breakthrough for me. If you ask me what my favourite cuisine is, I'd probably say all, but if it came to the crunch it would be Japanese.
What would be your last supper?
I would cook a whole steamed fish with black bean sauce, ginger and coriander, and then enjoy it with a glass of Mosimann champagne.
Having introduced cuisine naturelle, what do you think will be the food trends of the future?
People are much more health conscious and concerned with their intake of food now. But 20 years ago, with cuisine naturelle, people thought I was crazy. Trends come and go but now I believe healthy, organic, provenance, and good sourcing will remain.
As one of the first chefs to be featured on TV, what's your view on today's celebrity chefs?
I think it's good there's an awareness of our profession. It has been neglected for years. However there should be a balance. We must not give people the wrong impression. Youngsters see it and think they can be on TV in five years, but it's like sport – everyone wants to be number one but very few make it.
With your two sons now in the business – working on the front of house and management side, what plans do you have for the future?
I'm very proud and pleased to have my sons join me. It's a very nice feeling to pass it on to the next generation, so they can take it to the next step with new ideas. I will still be engaged here but now the boys are involved I can stand back a bit more. I love travelling and there are so many places that I haven't seen properly. Combined with food, I'd like to travel more and write about it. Whenever I travel I document everything, and I already have a whole filing cabinet full of information about the trips I've been on. I'd like to produce a book about my travels and the food I've experienced with these notes. I'd also like to spend more time with my collection of cookery books. I have 6,000 dating back to the 15th century, some which I haven't had the chance to read properly. I may also get more involved with associations like the Craft Guild of Chefs. I like to give back to the industry – I'm a great believer in looking after the youngsters. If we don't, who will?
What would you be doing if you weren't a chef?
I can't imagine doing anything else. I love people. Obviously I love food. I love being a host to my guests – my members and my friends. That's why I wanted to run a club and not a restaurant. I was the first chef to give back two stars but not to open a restaurant. I wanted to know my guests – know what food they like, what wine, what's their favourite table. It's like a big family.